New Year's Eve dinner as seen by Grégory Garimbay, Michelin-starred chef

Aesthetics, classical dishes, desserts and above all, a warm atmosphere, here is how a true New Year’s Eve gastronomic dinner should look like according to a Michelin-star chef.

News, Table

22 Déc 2024

How do you design a New Year's Eve menu for a gastronomic restaurant ? Are there any untouchable rules? Essential products? We take a closer look at the issue with Grégory Garimbay, Chef at the Hôtel Saint James in Paris, his chef sommelier, Arnaud Fatome, and the director of the Bellefeuille restaurant, Simon Peskine.

Yves Derai: Should we surprise or reassure?

Grégory Garimbay: A bit of both. In terms of the products, customers have expectations that evening that should not be disappointed. On the other hand, for the meal to be unforgettable, it is necessary to stand out from overly classic preparations, to be creative. Scallops, for example: we collect the strips all around to make a dashi broth with sake and achieve the umami taste. It is by pouring this broth over the scallops that we will cook them slightly.

Yves Derai: Are there any essential elements?

G.G.: Yes, without a doubt. I can't imagine a New Year's Eve meal without shellfish, caviar, foie gras, truffles and a nice poultry dish. I myself make a truffled poularde with the juices basted under the skin. I'm crazy about gravies and sauces, I like the gravy boat to stay at the table so we can have seconds.

Yves Derai: Do dishes have to have a particular aesthetic?

G.G.: I'm not passionate about this subject. I think an appetizing dish is very beautiful, there's no need to put flowers everywhere for the photo. I often say that ‘I'm a cook, not a florist’! I'm not a fan of this kind of fusion cuisine that creates soulless compositions. Even for New Year's Eve, I remain faithful to sincere and gourmet cuisine above all.

Yves Derai: For dessert, should we stay classic?

G.G.: No, we have the right to be creative. I ask my pastry chef, Coline Doussin, to offer desserts that are worthy of a chef. This means that they must be seasoned, like a dish in its own right. You can use salt, pepper, oils, etc. This year, we will probably serve a dessert made with rose hips (also known as rose haw), which are very difficult and time-consuming to work with. The season for this fruit is short, so you have to take advantage of it.

Yves Derai: Is music essential?

G.G.: Absolutely! Some people arrive at 7.30pm for the aperitif and leave after midnight to spend the whole year together. That's five hours at the table! So music is very useful. I like it to be festive. This year, we'll have a small gypsy jazz band that will go from table to table. And if at any point people feel like dancing, why not?

Yves Derai: What should you serve to drink on New Year's Eve?

G.G.: This is a question for my head sommelier, Arnaud Fatome. (He takes over) Usually, I like to surprise customers with unfamiliar labels, Corsican or foreign wines, for example. But for New Year's Eve, people expect great classic appellations. For the champagne, we will have a Taittinger 2016. For the Bordeaux, it will be Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. As for Burgundy, I really like the Bonnes-Mares grand cru. We offer food and wine pairings, but there is no obligation.

Yves Derai: Price-wise, can we afford anything that night?

G.G.: I'll hand you over to our restaurant manager, Simon Peskine (who takes over). Yes and no. It's true that when you include so many exceptional products on the menu, it pushes up the price. But we also have to be consistent. At Le Bellefeuille, the seven-course menu (with aperitifs and petits fours) will be 550 euros per person. As you can see, it's still reasonable in such a beautiful place with only 30 covers.

Article written by Yves Derai, to be found in issue 10 of OniriQ Magazine.