Translation by Bethszabee Garner
When Christian Dior acquired the Château de la Colle Noire in Montauroux, in the Grasse region, in 1951, the designer-perfumer linked his history to that of a land with which he had a special relationship. Although the Dior family is originally from Normandy, it was in Provence that they settled in 1935, in the midst of the economic depression. Later, during the Occupation, Christian Dior also moved there with his family. He even grew his own vegetables to cope with periods of food shortage. Even if, after the war, the designer moved to Paris and began his rise in the fashion world, part of his thoughts were occupied by his Provençal dream, which he would soon bring to life.
In this gentle land, the imposing estate was transformed under the guidance of the designer, who ceaselessly planted hundreds of almond trees, more than thirty cherry trees, and entire fields of olive trees. Another concern of the master of clothing was to revive the centuries-old tradition of scented flowers. At the Château de la Colle Noire, he grew jasmine grandiflorum, the rose of Grasse, and also lavender, with the help of a team of local farm workers. In the 1950s, the Grasse region enjoyed its golden age thanks to the cultivation of flowering plants, which made it famous. This period gave way to a more turbulent chapter, in which the growers abandoned the land. Today, the Grasse region has only a few growers of Jasminum grandiflorum and only about twenty growers of Rosa centifolia.
Several stakeholders are mobilizing in support of Grasse's expertise. Among them is the association Les Fleurs d'exception du pays de Grasse, which for more than ten years has been orchestrating a real revival by bringing together enthusiasts who are dedicated to the production of exceptional flowers, and the Dior company, whose commitment has been embodied by François Demachy, the former nose of the Parisian label. Who better than a local to accompany the luxury brand's return to its roots? In 2016, the Dior perfume house reoccupied the Colle Noire and restored it to its former glory by replicating the decoration designed by Christian Dior and recreating his garden, as well as replanting Grasse roses.
Dior Flowers for exceptional perfumes
Driven by the desire to offer Dior perfumes the most beautiful signature flowers, François Demachy is meeting with growers more and more frequently. It was on this occasion that he met Carole Biancalana in 2006, the heiress of the Domaine de Manon, where her family had been growing perfume flowers for more than three generations. “I had already been approached by other companies without following up, but this time I was convinced that I had found a true creator. And to commit myself to a real perfume company, whose standards are the same as my own,” recalls Carole Biancalana. Linked to the Dior brand by an exclusive partnership, the Domaine de Manon now reserves the entire harvest of the 3 hectares of jasmine grandiflorum and centifolia roses for them. What makes this flower, also known as the May rose or Grasse rose, so special? Its fragrance is both subtle and powerful, whose floral notes develop a “honeyed” side. A fragile flower whose harvest, which takes place from May to the beginning of June, requires constant attention. In fact, the May rose must be harvested on the day it blooms in order to be used.
For its part, the royal jasmine of Grasse or “large-flowered” jasmine is harvested from mid-July until around mid-October. During this period, the fields are illuminated by thousands of tiny fragrant white stars, which must be picked at dawn after they have blossomed during the night. Grasse jasmine has “an intense floral aroma that is not cloying. Full of character but more multifaceted than any other jasmine variety in the world,” explains Carole Biancalana. Another estate exclusively supplying Dior, the Clos de Callian specialized itself in the May rose. Trained in flower cultivation by Carole Biancalana, Armelle Janody is a committed ecologist. On her certified organic land, she chooses, for example, to plant clover which, like a green manure, fertilizes the soil that hosts her plants in the cold season. All these initiatives embody the Grasse revival.
Beyond the supply of exceptional raw materials, the Dior company has forged special relationships with its growers. It's in harmony with them that the luxury company cultivates a rose de Grasse and a jasmine grandiflorum “custom made” for its signature fragrances. Recently, the Dior company has taken on a new challenge, that of distilling the entire 2021 harvest of May roses from the Domaine de Manon to collect the rose water. As a tribute to the unique nuances of the queen of Grasse, Miss Dior Rose Essence seduces with its notes mixing the refreshing nuances of rose water with those more layered with vetiver, patchouli and powerful Lignum vitae or guaiacum. A signature scent, imbued with naturalness, which captures in a bottle all the beauty of a Grasse spring. And fulfills, in its own way, the dream of a couturier who is also a perfumer.
Article written by Marie-Caroline Selmer, to be found in issue n°1 of OniriQ Magazine.
