Translated by Bethszabee Garner

Exclusively for Oniriq, the Collector Square experts reveal the items to watch on the jewelry and leather goods market. The season is open!

Tubogas ring, yellow gold and cordierite, Bulgari, circa 1980

Precious Mesh

Inspired by the industrial era, the flexible tubogas mesh technique was developed in the 1950s. It requires specific expertise, entirely executed by hand, which is now disappearing.

Serpenti

The so-called “Serpenti” model appeared in the 1940s, mainly in the form of flexible wristwatches, which quickly evolved into necklaces and bracelets. In mythology, the snake is the symbol of eternal renewal. Bulgari has adopted this reference, deciding to make it the emblem of the company's creative audacity.

Italian-Style Elegance

Sophisticated and cutting-edge, Bulgari's tubogas jewelry has seen its value increase sharply in recent years. For example, a Serpenti tubogas ring in yellow gold and topaz, which was worth an average of €1,890 in 2019, is now worth almost €3,500.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lion Ruffled brooch in yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1960

Bestiary

A key theme in jewelry, animal jewelry showcases the full creative palette of the great brands of Place Vendôme. Each company has its own totem animal: the panther at Cartier, the lion at Chanel and the bee at Chaumet.

Fun carnival

The “La Boutique” collection was launched by VCA in 1954, initially to attract a wider clientele by presenting small collectible animals at more affordable prices. Among them; the Lion with a Disheveled Mane, the Mischievous Cat and a whole joyful menagerie.

Taking off

On hold for decades, the pieces from this collection are highly sought after. For example, the small model of the Disheveled Lion fetched an average of €3,000 in 2018 on the second-hand market, while it can now reach almost €6,000, provided of course that it is in perfect condition.

Constance handbag, Hermès, shiny emerald green crocodile leather, circa 1980.

Allusion

Created in the late 1960s, the Constance bag is named after the designer's daughter, born in the same year.

Logomania

Recognizable with its metal H-shaped clasp, the Constance bag proudly assumes its origins. Much to the delight of fans of the brand.

Good student

Between its handle, which allows it to be carried on the shoulder or over the shoulder, its storage compartments, and its gussets that give it a good capacity, the Constance bag ticks all the boxes of active life. A flawless bag.

A helping hand

Boosted by the Hermès communication campaign, the boutique price of the Constance bag has been aligned with that of the iconic Kelly and Birkin bags, and with it, its desirability. A boom (+23% in one year), which is being felt in the second-hand market, where leather items are changing hands for between €6,000 and €15,000, and from €25,000 upwards for exotic skins.

Kelly handbag, Hermès, box leather, circa 1990

Grace Kelly

This handbag (Kelly, 35 cm) owes its fame to the Princess of Monaco, who carried it against her stomach during her official appearances to conceal the beginnings of her pregnancy. Unexpected media coverage for Hermès, which renamed the bag in honor of Grace Kelly.

The detail that hits the mark

Intended as a handbag, the Kelly was revamped for the first time in the 1980s with the creation of a shoulder strap, then in 2004 with the appearance of the double hooks at the base of the handle, allowing the addition of a shoulder strap. An essential update to adapt the bag to current wearers.

7

That's how many sizes the Kelly bag comes in: 15, 20, 25, 28, 32, 35, 40. The rating varies according to the market. In Asia, the small sizes are in high demand, and conversely, the 35 and 40 sizes are a hit in the United States.

Colorama

Which colors should you invest in? The brand's signature shades (black, gold, taupe), but also flashy colors (pink, green, orange). The Holy Grail? Getting your hands on a limited edition, such as the So Black version produced between 2009 and 2011, which has increased in value by almost 40% in ten years, or versions in exotic leathers, which are increasingly rare.

Article written by Marie-Caroline Selmer, to be found in issue n°1 of OniriQ Magazine.