Translated by Bethszabee Garner

Bayreuth, 1973. Two years before the war tarnishes its beautiful landscapes. Lebanon was maintaining as best it could, its fragile equilibrium. In its capital, Bayreuth, Elie Saab celebrates his 9th birthday. At that time, already one thing seems to drive him: the complex art of clothing. Full of ambition and a desire to learn, he tries his hand at drawing, then sewing et begins to assemble dresses for his sisters. He idolizes Middle Eastern women, their expert mastery of elegance and their homage to tradition. With these as his main inspiration, he decides, at 18 years old, to open his very first workshop. Despite his growing talent, no one could have guessed that he would become one of the emblematic figures of his country, of an international level. While Elie Saab was just celebrating his brand’s 45th birthday last November, with a grandiose celebration and fashion show featuring 300 silhouettes, OniriQ wanted to meet him and look back on his more than inspiring career.

Tom Kuntz: You started sewing before you were even 10 years old. As a child, did you already dream of a career like the one you have today?

Elie Saab: At that age, I could never have imagined I would reach the stage I am now at. Even at 18, it was too early to predict such a success, especially during a war. However, over time and as my creations became more successful, I began to have a clearer vision of my future.

Tom Kuntz: When you were only 18, you reached a new milestone: the opening of your first workshop in Bayreuth, followed by your first fashion show. Were you ready for such a dramatic turning point?

E.S: When I started my journey in the fashion industry, I was very young and my first goal was to support and help my parents as much as I could. I started by dressing my family, especially my sisters, and over the years, my creations grew and I wanted to invest even more in this sector. I was born with the passion to create and make dresses and, through hard work and perseverance, I was able to elevate my brand to its current level.

Tom Kuntz: Fifteen years later, you’re participating in your first Fashion Week in Milan. Did you have to adapt your collections for the rest of the world and shed your 100% Lebanese DNA? Or, on the contrary, was it a choice to preserve it no matter the cost?

E.S: Living and growing up in Bayreuth significantly influenced and enriched my creative journey, especially during the cosmopolitan era of the 1970’s. The elegance of Lebanese women of that time had a strong impact on my creations. I blend the essence of Lebanon to the charm of the Mediterranean in my works, creating a bridge between tradition and modernity. My DNA is always found somewhere in my collections. It is part of me, it’s my signature and I will never part with it.

Tom Kuntz: You first did a show in Paris in 2002 as a guest of the Chambre Syndical of. Was it the fulfillment of a lifetime, an ultimate goal to show your creations to the fashion capital?

E.S: As the only non-French creator to become a member, being recognized as a Lebanese creator was and remains an honor. Furthermore, Paris is the city of Haute Couture. When you’re a fashion designer, the Holy Grail is to present yourself and do a show in Paris. Its incredible energy and magic are very inspiring.

Tom Kuntz: In 2006, you joined the official Haute Couture calendar as a correspondent member, which you remain on it to this day. What boost did this appointment give you?

E.S: When I was invited by Chambre Syndical of Haute Couture, it marked a new milestone in my career. I became the 4th non-French designer to receive such an invitation, after Valentino, Armani and Versace. This important step allowed me to expand my business and to place myself in a bigger spotlight. Fashion is a vast and constantly evolving world. It offers countless possibilities, and I look forward exploring them as they come.

Tom Kuntz: You dressed the greats of this world: from royalty like Kate Middleton, Princess Rajwa and Queen Rania of Jordan, to celebrities like Angelina Jolie, Halle Berry, Beyonce etc. Was there one that stood out more than the another?

E.S: The real turning point for the brand occurred when Halle berry wore an Elie Saab dress to the 2002 Oscars Ceremony. This moment showed that a simple dress can have a significant impact on a designer’s career. While I was already designing clothes beforehand, this event propelled the brand into the spotlight and allowed it to make headlines all over the world. Angelina Jolie, Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, Taylor Swift, Lily Collins…each of these women fascinate me not only for their outer beauty, but also for their inner qualities and the vision they represent. Their reflections on life and their unique perspective are what truly captivates me.

Tom Kuntz: Since 1998, you have also been working in ready-to-wear. As an Haute-Couture designer, is it a challenge every time to come back to a different type of thinking and production?          

E.S: Challenges are part of the journey to success, and they bring valuable rewards. Transitioning from Haute Couture to ready-to-wear represents a shift in thinking, but also an opportunity to expand my creative vision. Haute Couture focuses on creating unique and timeless pieces, handmade using traditional techniques, while ready-to-wear requires a more functional and accessible approach, while keeping an element of creativity and elegance.  It is also a challenging exercise to translate couture’s expertise into pieces that our customers can wear everyday.

Tom Kuntz.: Today, after more than forty years in this industry, you are considered to be one of the masters of Haute Couture, alongside Chanel, Dior and Valentino. What is the feeling like when you reach such a high level?

E.S: Reaching this stage hasn’t been easy, but I’m always looking for more ideas, more beautiful things, new creations, innovations. I am very demanding of myself. I always want things to be impeccable. The challenge is always there for me. Elie Saab has become a true entity, addressing a diverse audience with different lines, ranging from Haute couture to ready-to-wear, including perfumes, eyewear, Bridal for wedding dresses, Kid’s Collections for children, and since 2019, signature furniture collections and exclusive interiors for global real estate projects with the Elie Saab brand.

Tom Kuntz: While looking back on your career, was there a key moment, an anecdote or a fond memory that you would like to share with our readers?

E.S: Today, every step of my journey is an incredible memory. All these years of work, punctuated by key moments, from the Camera Nazionale to my first Haute Couture show in Paris, including Halle Berry's dress at the Oscars, and most recently, at the "1001 Seasons of Elie Saab" event, where we celebrated the brand's 45th anniversary in Riyadh with an exceptional show surrounded by Céline Dion, Jennifer Lopez, and Camila Cabello, as well as many other celebrities.

Tom Kuntz: And if you could speak to the 18-year-old Elie Saab, what would you say?

E.S: I would tell him that it's essential to stay consistent, true to himself, to preserve his identity, and to believe in his dreams and his talent. I would tell my younger self that patience is important. Believe in yourself and in your work and keep working hard. Never lose sight of your dreams, because they can guide you through challenges.