Translated by Bethszabee Garner

On January 29, the French fashion house Saint Laurent unveiled its fall-winter 2025-2026 collection for men. On the fringes of the official schedule, Anthony Vaccarello, its artistic director, caused astonishment with a very marked future trend: the return (or rather the introduction) of thigh-high boots in the men's wardrobe. But then, does the famous boot have its place there?

The Saint Laurent man wears thigh-high boots

After the end of Men's Fashion Week, it is high time for fashion journalists to analyze and group together the different trends that appeared on the catwalks. For the end of next year, responding to the precise designation of fall-winter 2025-2026, the artistic directors have given us something to chew on.

While the colors will tend towards pale pink (Louis Vuitton/Ami/Dior), the materials will sway towards mohair (Auralee/Kenzo) and fur (Sean Suen/Juun.J/032C). As for shoes, nothing very new except... at Saint Laurent.

Indeed, during his fashion show, the Belgian designer dressed 26 of his 37 models in thigh-high boots. Yes, you read that right, thigh-high boots! Until now, few designers have dared to make this trendy choice. If you look hard enough, you can only find a few brands, including Rick Owens, Y/Project and more recently Alexander McQueen.

In his own way, Vaccarello makes the famous boot elegant by transposing it onto purely workwear looks. Over matching suits or pleated trousers, thigh-high boots become a central element of the stylistic construction. Almost as if all we could see were the boots. And it is precisely this strong emphasis that interests us.

Where do thigh-high boots really come from?

In the modern collective imagination, thigh-high boots are exclusively associated with the female wardrobe. And the 1960s have a lot to do with that. At the time, a wave of futurism took fashion by storm. André Courrèges produced tall boots in a white vinyl that has since become iconic. For his part, Paco Rabanne incorporated them into his metallurgist DNA by associating them with his dresses.

Since then, every ten years or so since then, thigh-high boots have made a comeback in women's fashion, without ever straying too close to the wardrobe of the other gender. However, their origins are, and this has been proven, more than masculine.

Before being a fashion accessory, thigh-high boots, like capes, were functional. Whether in a military, equestrian or even aristocratic context, it was common for men to cover their legs up to the knees with sturdy footwear, which protected them from blows and also served as knee pads.

And even if you wouldn't think so, the court of King Louis XIV, to name but one, was full of nobles striding in their finest thigh-high boots with luxurious ornaments. After the 19th century, thigh-high boots disappeared from the “civilian wardrobe” and the fashion department, only to be seen in the military and equestrian worlds.

Our opinion on men's thigh-high boots in 2025

We have to admit that, at the fashion show for fall-winter 2025-2026 by Saint Laurent, we almost shouted “FINALLY!” at the sight of men's thigh-high boots. For several years now, designers, each in their own way, have been tending to make fashion more genderless. And for many combinations, it is often a simple stylistic return to the roots.

Because yes, “feminine” capes were once unisex, as were the heels (with a strong female dominance today) that were worn during the Renaissance. The examples are in fact numerous: handbags, makeup, dresses, skirts, tights and even lace. Fashion has been evolving in an endless cycle since the dawn of time. Yesterday's trends will be back next season, what is masculine today will be feminine tomorrow, and so on.

Anthony Vaccarello proves it to us once again with this new introduction of thigh-high boots to the men's wardrobe, and even makes us want to adopt them ourselves. Our opinion on the matter is therefore more than simple: we 100% approve and we love this new playground of the in-between genres through our shoes.

In fall-winter 2025-2026, thigh-high boots will most certainly reign supreme in our wardrobes and trends, regardless of gender and preconceptions. Thank you Saint Laurent!